October and November is not the best time in Cairo - although it should be. The weather drops from deep fry to a mild simmer, the evenings are crisp and the mornings are lazy. Yet thanks to impatient demands of poverty and the lack of government regulations (in addition to the lack of implementation), the Egypt's autumn is anything but pleasant.
I can only compare it to drowning.
Or at least how I imagine drowning. You find yourself disoriented, everything is familiar but different. You know that the most important thing to do is keep you mouth closed but your lungs crave oxygen, forcing your eyes to burn and water and swell up inside your head... eventually your body forces you to open your mouth and its over, everything comes rushing in.
The black cloud.
Your lungs ache, your throat itches. The afternoon sun cakes your body in a combination of soot and sweat.
I now experience sporadic afflictions of dermatitis once or twice a day, and I really just want to stay inside, but of course this isn't feasible. Anyway, air is air, and being inside the house or out on the street is only a marginal difference.
So what's the deal?
The deal is that Cairo is suffering from the annual Black Cloud, generated every fall by the combination of industrial pollutants, car exhaust, and most notably, the burning of agricultural waste after the harvest. The amazing thing about the Nile Delta is that this stretch of land is astoundingly fertile; planting and harvesting seasons are simply put on a year round production schedule. Strawberries in January, prickly pears in June, vegetables year round... its incredible. Egypt is also one of the largest producers of rice within the world, producing around 4.5 Million Tons of rice every year.
According to the rice farmers, the problem is that after the harvest, they are left with mountains of agricultural waste, obstructing their land and making it unusable for the next planting. Although I have my doubts, I read some stories on the internet that some troublesome kids in 1999 had set fire to a giant pile of such waste, and after farmers noticed that the fire never spread, but only sat smoldering and coughing up a black pillar of smoke, burning has become the common solution to their problem.
It has been stated by the Egyptian government in the past that the issue will be taken care of, that regulations will be created and enforced, and that the black cloud will stop showing up every fall. As you can see from the photo taken this afternoon from my bedroom window, its clear that these changes haven't happened.